Last Updated on Friday, 28 December 2012 12:54
Bare-root fruit trees will soon be arriving in local nurseries. They are usually less expensive than potted plants, but they need some special handling. Here are some things to remember.
*Scope out your property to figure out the optimum location. Learn something about the tree’s requirements for soil, sun (fruit and nut trees always need full sun), water, care and temperature needs and tolerance. Mariposa County Master Gardeners suggest a University of California site, cagardenweb.ucdavis.edu, for basics. For specific help, people who know the area are best.
*At the nursery, inspect the tree you have your eye on. The tree should look healthy, with no injuries or evidence of disease or pests. Look for a straight tree that tapers from trunk to top. It should spring back when bent – that shows it has developed good above-and below-ground strength. Half the branches should be in the upper third.
*Bare-root trees are dormant, but are in shock and their roots must be kept moist. If you can’t plant right away, cover roots and protect the tree from freezing.
*Never plant in saturated soil and do not plant in a basin. Fruit trees benefit from mound or raised-bed planting. Prepare the soil by working an area about 4-feet-by-4 feet. Dig just deep enough to remove any compacted layers. Do not amend the soil as this just creates an in-ground pot – the roots will prefer to stay in the easier soil and can become rootbound.
Prune broken, twisted or girdled roots. Look for the bud union (where the root stock joins the base of the tree); this should be 3 to 6 inches above the soil.
*Dig a hole two times the diameter of the root mass and rough up the sides. Put about a third of the soil in the hole, forming a mound. Set the tree on the mound and spread out the roots. This creates a trench that will help with irrigation and winter runoff. Continue filling and tamping down the soil. It’s vital to eliminate air pockets, so once the tree is planted, flood the hole and wiggle the tree and poke a stick in the soil to be sure the tree is well set.
*Cut the tree off to 20 inches to 2 feet from the top of the mound. This balances top and the roots, and encourages low branching, which makes it far easier to reach the fruit. If you keep the tree only as tall as you can reach, you won’t have to fool with ladders later. Cut back to two buds any lateral branches below 2 feet from the ground.
*Paint the lower two-thirds of the trunk with a mixture of half water and half interior white latex paint to prevent sunburn and protect from Pacific flat-head borers.
*Apply three to four inches of mulch in a radius two to three feet from the tree to help maintain moisture, add nutrients and discourage weeds.
Two workshops on pruning established fruit trees are coming up: Jan. 5, 10 a.m. to noon, 10701 Highway 49, Coulterville and Jan. 25, 2 to 4 p.m., 3204 River Haven Road, Mariposa.
Master Gardener volunteers are trained by the University of California and dedicated to educating and advising local home gardeners. For other information, advice or home garden questions, call or drop by the Mariposa Master Gardener help desk on Tuesdays 9 a.m. to noon or Thursdays 2-5 p.m. (until spring, Thursdays only), 5009 Fairgrounds Road; (209) 966-7078. Or call 852-9711 for the North County area.
