Mt. Whitney East Buttress Technical Rescue
October 2, 2024 – Inyo County Sheriff's Office officials report that a party of two climbers set out from the Whitney Portal at 1:30 A.M. on September 21, 2024, to attempt a climb of the Mt. Whitney East Buttress route (IV, 5.7, 1000’, 11 pitches). They reached the base of the climb at 10:00 A.M. and proceeded to start up the route. About five hours later, they had only reached the top of Pitch 3. Due to the snow/ice on the route and limited remaining daylight, they decided they were beyond their ability and attempted to bail off the route into the neighboring Mountaineer’s Route couloir. They were unable to complete their bail after starting it and contacted 911 for assistance. Inyo SAR soon after called the subjects directly for over an hour to get overview of situation and coach self-rescue but subjects were not comfortable executing any of the methods discussed. Due to lack of time prior to sunset, the party weathered in location for 18+ hours overnight waiting for rescue. One member of the party had done an initial rappel but was unable to re-ascend the rope back to the original anchor and spent that entire time at the end of the rope 100 ft. from their partner. An Inyo SAR team was inserted via helicopter early the next morning (September 22), climbed up to the party in the same snowy and icy conditions, and facilitated their rescue. All then walked out under their own power. In order to safely complete the mission, there was gear left behind on the route. This was then recovered on September 25 with the help of a local guide. A special thanks from Inyo SAR goes out to good Samaritans Todd and Eric who assisted on route during the rescue and then Neil (of Sierra Mountain Guides) and his son Nathan who assisted in retrieval of the gear left behind.
Alpine rock climbing is a serious endeavor that requires many different skills to do safely. Those skills include the abilities to conduct accurate self-assessment of your skill versus your objective, to understand weather conditions and their effect on route conditions, and to perform self-rescue techniques in stressful situations.
This party was beyond their skill level in these areas, both in terms of climbing and general alpine movement. This mission was the result of a series of bad decisions (until the good decision to call for help) that were entirely avoidable if proper preparation had been done. We want everyone to enjoy the Sierra, but everyone has a different path to doing so. If unsure if you are ready, don’t ever hesitate to hire a guide so you can learn first-hand how to perform and apply these skills in remote environments under the supervision of certified professionals.
Inyo SAR is an all-volunteer and unpaid, professional non-profit 501(c)3 organization in cooperation with and under the authority of the Inyo County Sheriff's Office. Providing search and rescue services to Inyo County and its visitors is only possible thanks to donations.
Photo below is close-up of the image above.
Source & photos: Inyo County Sheriff's Office
